How to Build Your Own Drawer Slides

I'm sure this happens to you too. You somehow come across a great dresser (find it at the thrift store, curb, attic, etc.). Its solid wood and has great lines. Then you try to pull out one of the drawers. 

Maybe the problem isn't coming out, its trying to put them back in. Either way, you've got some messed up drawer slides. Never fear! I inherited a great, Broyhill dresser from my brother when they were moving a few weeks ago. Actually, it came out of my sweet niece Morgan's room.

My brother warned me it needed some work when he gave it to me. Not so bad on the outside, but the inside was a mess. Of course it got a pretty, painted make-over (which I'll share soon), but I first needed to address the function. All three slide rails were broken beyond repair.

There are dozens of styles of drawer slides available today, but fortunately most old furniture typically uses one of only a handful of styles.

This dresser came with a simple metal, c-shaped channel attached to the bottom of the drawer box.

And screwed to the dresser frame were plastic, t-shaped rails. Since these were the pieces that needed to be recreated, I carefully studied the size and shape, taking measurements on all sides. 

I 'll show you how I created 3 replacement rails. To fabricate the rails, start with a 2x6, approximately as long as your dresser is deep, and a table saw.

*Make sure to be very familiar with your table saw and always use eye and ear protection. 

Using the existing rail width as a guide, set your fence.

Make 3 passes with your board, creating 3 blanks.

Turn the rail 90 degrees and reset your fence.

Turn each blank 90 degrees and pass through the saw again. At this point, each blank should have the same external dimensions as the original rail. The next step is to shape them into a "T".

Take measurements of the stem. 

Set your blade height to the height of the stem.

Cut a channel on either side of the stem width. Move the fence in 1/8th inch and pass the blank through again. Continue to move the fence in and pass the blank through until you've reached the outside edge or removed most of the material. Break off any remaining wood and clean up the cuts with a chisel and some sand paper. 

Your blanks should now resemble the shape of the original rail. It's usually okay if its not perfect, but close.

The rails are counter-sunk on the dresser frame a bit, so you need to cut some of the stem to account for that. Place the rail where it will be mounted to the dresser frame and mark with a pencil where frame ends.

Set the height of your blade to 1/8 in. Place the rail perpendicular to the fence and adjust it so your blade lines up with your pencil mark, taking into account the blade width. Just like creating the rail stem, move the fence in at 1/8 in increments and pass the rail through till you reach the end.

It may look a little rough until you clean it up with a chisel or if you're careful, a utility knife. The little pieces clean up easily.

Put the rail in place on the frame. Use a square to make sure its sitting perfectly. Pre-drill a hole through the rail, into the frame. Drive a wood screw, securing the rail to the frame. Depending on the dresser configuration, you may need to screw the other end of the rail to the frame.

Attach the other 2 rails and you're done! Sanding the rails smooth and rubbing on a bit of soap or wax helps the drawer to slide smoothly. I also recommend sealing any small cracks in the wood with some wood glue.

I know I made the steps sound hard and detailed, but I promise I wasn't hard at all! If you are familiar with your table saw and have some scrap wood, you'll never buy replacement drawer slides again!

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Common Ground

   

Weathered Wood Finish {World Market Knock-Off}

A weathered wood finish is very "in" right now. There are different variations of the same look going around right now, but one of my favorite is the weathered wood finish you see on several pieces from Cost Plus World Market. Below is a great example of how the finish looks on their "Clayton" coffee table.

World Market "Clayton" Coffee Table

I've spend some time playing around with stain and paint, and I think I've come up with a darn good, super cheap, knock-off. You can see it on my DIY Crate, which I recently posted a tutorial on. I particularly like this finish on rough-sawed or textured wood, but it will work on any unfinished wood. Keep in mind, different species of wood oxidize at different rates with different tones. 

To start, you need to make an oxidizing solution. Cut wood will oxidize and turn different colors, naturally (think wood fence pickets), but can take months or even years. An oxidizing solution creates the same process, but instantly. 

The ingredients you need are simple to find. You need a glass jar (I typically use an old pasta sauce jar), one or two clumps of fine steel wool, and distilled white vinegar.

Place the steel wool in the jar, fill with the vinegar, screw on the cap, and put the jar somewhere out of mind to do it's magic, periodically shaking the jar to mix the contents. The longer you let it sit, the more concentrated the solution becomes, the darker your oxidizing result will be. This jar of solution I used has probably been sitting on the shelf about 6 months! Pretty isn't is?

You don't have to let it sit nearly that long to get a good result, but I would suggest a minimum of 48 hrs. Keep in mind, the finer the steel wool, the quicker it will dissolve. So if you are in a rush, try using a finer steel wool. Also, if you are wanting a warmer colored finish, try throwing a few copper pennies in with your steel wool.

Application is easy. You can use either a bristle or foam brush. Simply brush the solution on the entire surface, making sure to saturate the wood. Be careful! The solution is very thin and easily makes a HUGE mess!

Wear gloves. This is what happens when you don't wear gloves. Beautiful, "Oompa Loompa orange" fingers and nails for a couple of days.

Once you have applied one coat of the oxidizing solution to the entire surface, allow to dry thoroughly. Once completely dry, you can move onto the next step. Mix up a wash from 50% warm, light grey paint and 50% water. (My wash was a bit more grey than the picture shows). You can use any kind of  water-based paint for this.

Then, you are going to use a "dry brush" technique. To do this, very lightly load a dry paint brush with the paint wash. Next, lightly drag the bristles across the surface of the wood, trying to catch only the raised grains. Less is more. You can always go back and apply more wash, but you can't remove it.

Work in small sections. After dry brushing the paint wash, immediately  blend with a rag.

Try to vary the amount of paint wash you apply. Naturally, all wood does not oxidize at the same rate, or in the same pattern. For a more realistic result, create darker and lighter areas. If you want a softer look, apply more pressure with the rag when you blend.

Seal with either wax, hemp oil, or a matte Poly, and here is the finished result.

I'm starting to look at my kitchen table top a little differently now...



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Green Willow Pond
Fluster Buster