Sunday, August 25, 2013

From Black Hope Chest to Blue Vintage Trunk

My grandpa Huish was an amazing man. A well known educator and community leader, he had several special talents. Most people would remember him for being an amazing woodworker. All 30 of us grand kids have great memories of being out in Grandpa's shop making toy swords and watching him turn gorgeous wood bowls.

He had 5 daughters, but the next generation was much thinner on girls. To make his granddaughters feel special, Grandpa decided to build us all cedar hope chests before we graduated high school.

Sadly, Grandpa developed Alzheimer's disease and became unable to work in his shop shortly after I graduated. Unfortunately, my few, younger, female cousins didn't receive a hope chest. I feel so lucky to have received one of the last wood projects my grandfather built.

In high school, I went through a super edgy/contemporary decorating phase, so when Grandpa asked what color I wanted my hope chest, I requested black. Beautiful, hardwood veneer and I wanted black. Oh well, tastes change. After going through a few moves and my active boys running around, the hope chest had seen better days.


I wanted a distressed, layered look but I didn't want the black to show through. To start, I mixed up some tan latex paint and brushed on one coat on evenly.


Next, I applied Vaseline around the areas that would naturally receive the most wear, followed by another coat of latex paint. This time, a medium, grey-blue.

Once that had dried. I sporadically brushed on Crackle Medium from Old Fashioned Paint Company.


I have used a number of crackle mediums before. In my opinion, the one from Old Fashioned Paint Company is the best. I provided a link below where you can find it.

                                                                        

 I'm not really into the whole 90's, country look, so I don't want to create large, uniform cracks. I've discovered I can use this crackle medium to create awesome texture and chippyness.

Brush on the medium and let it dry thoroughly. The directions say to only brush one, smooth stroke of paint over the crackle medium and leave it alone. If you do that, you'll get those wide, 90's style cracks. What I do is brush on the paint, let it partially dry, then brush over it again. Play around with it till you get the texture you like.

For my final coat of paint, I mixed some CeCe Caldwell Pure White with the blue from the last coat.


To make it look more like an old trunk, I decided to add some labels. I headed over to The Graphics Fairy and found this vintage label and enlarged it 150%.

Courtesy of The Graphics Fairy
I followed her tutorial How to Transfer Typography to Furniture and applied a logo to the front face and lid as well as a pair of "Fragile" stamps on each end. 

My tip is to first use a plastic scraper to take off the majority of the paper before you start to rub off the excess. 


Follow up with 220 grit sandpaper to clean up the label and distress the edges. Wipe clean and seal with 2 coats of matte Poly.


For the last step, I added decorative brass box corners. They started off a shiny, gold colored brass. I'll write up a tutorial down the road on how I create the tarnished look.


They can be hard to find locally. You most likely can get a better deal online.

                                                                    

And here is the final  result.



It was hard to capture all the detail in photos. I really like how the darker blue peaks through.


This photo depicts the color the best.


Between the tan paint and the veins of black showing through, I think it looks a lot like wood. What do you think?


Here it is, back where it belongs at the foot of our bed.


It may not show off my grandpa's beautiful wood work, but I still think he would be proud.



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Tuesday, August 20, 2013

Talkin' Tools Tuesday #2 (Power Drill)



Hello ladies! I'm back again for Talkin' Tools week number #2. This week, I'll be discussing hand-held, power drills (different kinds, functions, pros/cons). 

I imagine most households have a power drill, if not, I would recommend you make it your first power tool purchase. They are so helpful for a number of projects (home decor, crafts, wood working, etc.) I have 4 drills that I use regularly, I'll start by showing them. The primary functions I use mine for are driving screws, and drilling holes, although you can find a lot of attachments for other tasks such as mixing paint, buffing wax or brushing off rust. 

First, is my corded drill. Yes, they still make these. Although I don't use it often, there are times when I am going to be drilling LOTS of holes and I don't want to have to worry about switching batteries or waiting for them to charge. Also, this puppy has some serious speed and torque! It spins at a maximum 3000 RPM (rotations per minute), where a normal, 18 volt cordless drill is in the 900-1200 RPM range. 


The second most used drill in my garage is my Black and Decker 18 volt, cordless drill. This is my go-to drill for basic use. The batteries have long life, and its gel grip makes it comfortable to use.


I have an 18 volt, Ryobi drill that came in a kit we bought when we were first married. Its a good basic drill but my Ryobi batteries are pretty much toast, so I don't often use this one anymore.


And last but DEFINITELY not least, is my DeWalt, cordless impact driver. Though technically not a drill, it is one of my favorite tools I have ever used! I LOVE the smaller size, lighter weight, and MASSIVE power that this little tool packs into such a small package.


 If you have never used an impact driver, you seriously need to go to your home improvement store and try out the display! Honestly, this is the only drill I ever want to use again! It does have a couple, small drawbacks, which I'll touch on later. Almost every brand makes an impact driver now and I was told specifically from the Kreg Jig rep at Haven, that they are safe to use with their system.

Even more powerful is a hammer drill. I don't personally own one, but my husband uses one almost daily at work. They are primarily intended to drive large screws or bolts into dense material such as stone, concrete, and large beams. You can read about the differences between a hammer drill and an impact driver here.

Source
Let's talk chucks. What is a chuck? (No, not a woodchuck or a guy named Charles) A chuck is the place on a drill that you insert your bit, driver, or other attachment.  This is what a "key-less chuck" looks like. Its easy to use. The three metal prongs you see inside hold your bit. Spin the barrel to the left to open the prongs wider, insert the bit, then spin the barrel to the right to tighten it.

I have had this kind of chuck open when using a lot of pressure in reverse, but typically it works like a champ!


I have never personally seen a hand-held drill with a "keyed chuck", but I'm sure they still make them. This is the "keyed chuck" on my husband's drill press. Just as the name implies, it requires a key that is inserted into the hole, lined up with the metal teeth above and twisted to tighten/loosen the prongs.

 Not very convenient, but holds bits EXTREMELY tightly.


The third type of chuck is a "quick connect" collet. The name says it all. It is the fastest way to insert a bit or attachment. It's awesome.


To open it, pull the outer sleeve forward, insert your bit, and let the sleeve slide back.

The downsides of this kind of chuck are that they usually can only accommodate a hex-head bit, and only in a small range of sizes. You can buy adapters and larger "quick connects".


Now for the direction selector. On most drills, there is a button or lever right above the trigger that selects which direction the drill spins. Think back to kindergarten. "Righty-tighty, Lefty-loosey". There are 3 settings: clockwise, locked, and counter-clockwise.

Use clockwise to drive screws, or drill and counter clockwise to back out screws. 


Some drills, but not all, have a speed selector. You can adjust the speed of the drill by the varying the amount of pressure on the trigger, but the speed selector is nice for repeated drilling/driving.

I recommend using a high drill speed, with low pressure when drilling into wood to avoid blow-out. You want to use a slower speed with more pressure for drilling metal. I will often slow my drill speed down when driving screws to avoid stripping the heads.

Have a really difficult screw to drive/loosen? Use an impact driver. That is what they are designed for and they are life-savers! I promise you, you will be thrilled after using one!


Lastly, some drills come with a few bells and whistles. For example, my Ryobi has a magnetic pad that is awesome for holding bit and screws, 


And my DeWalt has a super handy LED light that turns on when you squeeze the trigger. Such a useful feature when assembling furniture! 


I have not been sponsored by any of these companies. As you can see, I use a variety of different brands of power drills, and they each have their pros and cons. Hopefully, this information will make you more comfortable with your own drill, or inspire you to make a new purchase. If you have any other questions or comments, please let me know!



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